Calling motorbike and rugby fans alike – get May 5th in your diary! Saracens annual Motorbike Ride Out will be taking place this year alongside our final game of the season against Exeter Chiefs.

Once again Saracens have teamed up with Herts Air Ambulance to deliver this innovative event with all proceeds from the day benefitting the Saracens Sport Foundation and the Herts Air Ambulance.

The day will kick off with breakfast at Saracens Training Ground, Old Albanians RFC and a motorcycle meet as well as plenty of family fun, including entertainment from our very own Saracens Sensations as well as the opportunity to meet some of the Saracens players. Bikers will then take to the roads to make the journey down to Vicarage Road to cheer on the Men in Black.

Tickets for this event are being offered as two package deals: (view the event flyer here)

Bike and Supporters Ticket £20
Includes entry into the family fun day, entry into the Saracens Motorbike Ride Out, Parking for the duration of the match, 1 match ticket Saracens v Exeter and a donation to both the Saracens Sport Foundation and the Herts Air Ambulance.

Bike Ticket £10
Includes entry into the family fun day, entry into the Saracens Motorbike Ride Out, Parking for the duration of the match and a donation to both the Saracens Sport Foundation and the Herts Air Ambulance.
Folk need to register attendance ….
If you would like more details please call Bethany Kinsella on
01707285026 or
07823441206
or
email bethanykinsella@saracens.net to book.

Are there aspects of the magazine that are useful to you or are there other topics that you would like to see included in future editions?  The University of Bedordshire is conducting a survey  to find out bikers’ views on the magazine.  To have your say please complete the online survey by clicking here.

Ride Free 2012

Ride Free! Our event that celebrates all things motorcycle returned for its second year and was held on Sunday 1st April at Redborne Upper School, Flitwick Road, Ampthill, Bedfordshire, MK45 2NU.

Tell us what you liked about the event by filling in our quick online evaluation click here

The event started at 10am and over 1000 attendee’s enjoyed attractions including; Dave Coates Stunt riding show and Ken Fox’s Wall of Death – back for the 2nd year running! The event once again raised money for the East Anglian Air Ambulance and generous bikers from all over Bedfordshire helped raise £1080.00 – enough to fund an emergency flight!

Herts and Beds Advanced Motorcyclists ran a  Slow riding skills course and an Advanced Riding Seminar, encouraging riders of all abilities and ages to consider furthering their riding skill level.

Bedfordshire Police ran the national Bikesafe assessed Rides scheme and were taking booking for the next Bikesafe dates http://www.motorcyclingmatters.org/training/bikesafe-riding-assessments

The ‘Expert’ Slow riding competition returned and was won by our very own Motorcycling Matters team (comprised of riders from Bedfordshire Police, Bedfordshire Fire and Rescue Service and the stunt rider Dave Coates). The National ‘Get on’ Scheme for non riders was run by SMART motorcycle training, who were kept busy all day with enthusiastic new riders.

Those who attended enjoyed shopping for the best Bike and gear with our local bike retailers; Supamoto Kawasaki, Flitwick Motorcycles, Honda Dunstable and Hein Gericke Luton creating a retail village and superb catering was provided by Debby at ‘The Happy Plaice’.

The event attracted more riders and raised more money for the Air Ambulance than last years event, so a huge thank you to everyone who attended, supported and had a thoroughly great day out and we look forward to seeing you next year!

To visit our Facebook page and see some more photo’s of the event click here

All members of our old forum will be automatically e-mailed soon with instructions on how to re-register. In the meantime (if you’re feeling eager) you can head on over to our new look forum now!

- Improved navigation around the website
- Complete re-skinning
- Social media integration with Facebook and Twitter
- A band new forum
- Search functionality

and a few other surprises too

We’d appreciate your feedback on the website, let us know what think of the new site.

- The Motorcycling Matters Team

A leaner, meaner BMF with clear objectives, set the theme for the BMF’s AGM on Saturday.

Held at the Harefield Community Association, Uxbridge, Middlesex, the meeting heard from outgoing chairman Anna Zee that while individual membership numbers had fallen slightly, affiliated club membership remained buoyant and that the BMF’s portfolio of shows, a key source of income for the BMF, although now more professionally presented, had no doubt been hit by the current economic situation.

Speaking on BMF finances, Finance Director Howard Anderson said that while office overheads had been considerably reduced during the year, the work load was still there and he asked for more volunteers to help spread the load. The good news was however that Archant Dialogue, the producers of the BMF’s magazine Motorcycle Rider, had not only cut costs dramatically and increased advertising revenue he said, but were also upgrading the BMF’s website.

This financial theme was continued when it came to the BMF’s shows’ portfolio. For 2012 and beyond, a new contract had been entered into with The Mulberry Group, the organisers of BMF shows for the past two years, whereby they would now take on full responsibility for the shows both functionally and financially.

Martin Chick, Mulberry Group MD, said that while overall he had been happy with the content of the shows, he was not happy with their financial performance. He said that the move of the Tailend show to Lincoln had been a worthwhile experiment but was not a financial success and therefore, having taken into account public and trader views and discussed it with the BMF’s Management Team, Tailend, with improved contract terms, will be moved back to Peterborough for 2012. “We clearly got the moving of the Tailend show wrong, but we did it for the right reasons” said Martin. “As we’ve said all along, we’ll listen to traders, BMF members and attendees. They’ve all said Lincoln isn’t right for them, hence the move back to Peterborough.”

Martin also said that his team were in negotiations with a new sponsor for the shows, which would help defray expenses and increase profitability.

The show dates for 2012 were announced as:
BMF Show, Peterborough, 18-20 May
BMF Bikefest Kelso, 6-8 July
BMF Tailend, Peterborough, 14-16 September

Amy Nicholson from Archant Dialogue then spoke about Marketing and Communications, specifically about the growth and development of Motorcycle Rider magazine. Advertising revenues had risen she said and there was a new confidence from advertisers, one of whom had already booked for the forthcoming four issues. She noted that with the development of the BMF’s website there would be a further increase in revenues, but as the development had to be self-funding, this would not be overnight.

The BMF’s Government Relations Executive Chris Hodder then spoke about lobbying and government relations. He said that the motorcycle training review was still ongoing and he outlined the Euro demonstration planned for Brussels in November against anti-motorcycling proposals. He stressed the need to concentrate on real and not imagined threats and went on to talk about European type approval regulations, in particular dispelling some myths about roadside checks, on-board diagnostics and compulsory ABS.

When it came to BMF elections, Peter Laidlaw was re-elected as Director of Member Services while two new volunteer directors, Tom Duncan and Roger Ellis were co-opted on to the Management Team.

After five years at the helm, outgoing chairman Anna Zee said that for personal reasons she would be standing down but hoped to continue to participate in the Federation’s activities wherever she could and wished everyone well for the future. A vote of thanks was given for the tireless work Anna had performed over the past five, very difficult years.

Ends

Issued by Jeff Stone: t: 0121 709 1040 m: 07802 763094 e: jeff.stone@bmf.co.uk

Details on this and other bmf activities can also be found on our web site: www.bmf.co.uk

It’s great fun getting together with club mates and going on a ride out for an evening, a day or a weekend. Whether it’s a short pub run or a day at the coast the enjoyment is the same – but are we always aware of how easily it can end in tears?

In the past few years there have been an increasing number of accidents (including fatal accidents) involving people riding in groups. Quite often the victim is either a newcomer to biking, or someone who has only recently joined the group. Sometimes the group itself is new or had only got together for one ride.

Whatever the cause, with a few simple precautions and some common sense rules, the run can not only be made safer but much more fun for all concerned. We have prepared the following to help club members, some of whom may be new to motorcycling in general and group riding in particular, to take part in ride ours with confidence and enjoyment.

THE RUNNING ORDER
Oakley MC always uses the Drop Off method. This is critical to get right if you want a safe and successful run for the whole gang so this point is worth spending some time on. There are two very important positions:

At the front we have a LEADER / NAVIGATOR.  This rider should have studied and be familiar with the route and should have the riding skills and the bike to make reasonable progress.

At the back we have TAIL END CHARLIE, wearing a yellow reflective jacket. This should be an experienced member of the team on a big, reliable bike – with a turn of speed if required.

The rider should, like the leader, also be familiar with the route to be taken and should, if possible, have a mobile phone.

The job of Tail End Charlie is to look out for stragglers or break-downs and to make sure no-one gets left behind or has an accident without being noticed.

Between the Leader and Tail End Charlie is the rest of the group which is usually a mixture of experienced and newer riders with varying levels of confidence and speed ranges. The more experienced riders should always consider and protect their less experienced companions.

HOW DOES THE DROP OFF SYSTEM WORK?
The Leader sets off at a speed that ensures the rider immediately behind (Number 2) can keep up without stress (called riding to the speed of the bike behind). The rest of the group can straggle along at their own varying speeds, spread out over quite a long distance – they won’t get lost IF everyone follows this system.

When the leader comes to a junction, the rider behind him (Number 2) stops by that junction to indicate to each subsequent rider which way to turn.

When Tail End Charlie finally appears (and that may take several minutes for a large group) the rider at the junction pulls away in front of Tail End Charlie, thereby being relegated from the front of the main group to the back. At the next junction, the new number 2 drops off to point the way, and in turn is relegated to the back.

IT IS CRUCIAL that at EVERY junction, roundabout or turn – the current Number 2 rider drops off – NO EXCEPTIONS!!!

On a recent ride out, the drop offs had been a bit erratic. On the way home the group turned into McDonalds for a coffee break shortly after a roundabout but the Number 2 didn’t drop off. The turn seemed obvious to him but not to the rest of the group. However, Tail End Charlie had the relevant mobile numbers and a quick call confirmed that the rider were together and OK, and as experienced riders, were happy to make their own way home. It shouldn’t have happened though.

ROUTE PLANNING
Whether we’re looking for a quick A-road route or a more challenging ride through the countryside we need to think about where we are going to make stops.

When making these plans we need to consider the comfortable range of all the bikes on the trip as well as the ability of the rider to ride for long distances.

Generally, one-hour stints are about long enough for most riders.

To avoid a mishap it is a good idea to make sure you know:

- the route to be taken (list of roads and/or route map)
- stopping places / rv points
- mobile phone numbers – especially those of Leader and Tail End Charlie.

If you do go astray you are less likely to get worried or do stupid things to catch up if you know where you are supposed to be heading and how to make contact with the rest of the group.

RULES OF THE ROAD
When out on the road there are three golden rules for a successful group run and if you can’t agree these before the start, then you won’t be welcome on the ride out.

1. ALWAYS drops off if you are the current Number 2.
2. ONLY go as fast as YOU feel comfortable with
3. NEVER hassle a slower rider in front of you nor overtake unless that rider specifically signals you to.

One of the main causes of accidents is when the riders in the group play “follow my leader” and constantly try to keep up with the bike in front. But there’s no need to! The Drop Off system means that even if you lose sight of the bike in front of you, there should always be a bike waiting for you at the next junction. If you still feel a bit lost, just slow down and soon enough, another rider or Tail End Charlie will ease up behind you.

The Drop Off system constantly rotates so everybody get a chance to go as fast as they want every now and then, and the less experienced rider need not worry that they are holding anyone up.

We sometimes see riders towards the back of a group doing stupid things like overtaking on double white lines, flying into blind bends, speeding in the most inappropriate places and even jumping red lights in an effort to catch up. It is not necessary, it is dangerous and it gives us a bad name – remember the Tail End Charlie is probably wearing a yellow Oakley MC waistcoat – other road users will know exactly who we represent.

MOTORWAYS AND DUAL CARRIAGEWAYS

Staying together, or at least in sight of one another is quite important on motorways, dual carriageways and long straight main roads. This is especially true if you are in unfamiliar territory. Remember, stopping on the hard shoulder near a turn off to let the rest of your group catch up is illegal and can get you booked or worse.

The group can compress by riding in staggered formation – if the bike in front of you is to the right of the carriageway, you move to the left a short distance behind.

If for some reason the bike in front of you swaps to the left, you move out to the right. You should see in your mirrors the rest of the group swapping sides behind you – strangely entertaining!

However, if you are the lead bike, try and take up a constant position to minimize the amount of to-ing and fro-ing behind you!

AND FINALLY …

There is a wealth of motorcycling experience in the club. We have motorcycle instructors, top class ex-police motorcyclists and highly experienced trip organizers.

Nowhere else can you get access to so much knowledge and experience so easily.

It doesn’t matter how long you’ve been riding, or what bike you currently use, please grab that knowledge and experience – you will become a much better road rider.

And that means a safer, relaxed but by no means, slower rider.

Just have a quiet chat with any of the committee members, or perhaps the Leader or Tail End Charlie on a ride-out, to sort out a spot of private tuition for a nominal cost.

SO, WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?
Get your bike ready, get your kit on, get on a ride out and enjoy yourself – no stress!
© Oakley Motorcycle Club 2007
Reproduced with permission.

So, whether you ride one of these . . .	or one of these . . .
or even one of these . . .

. . . this article applies to you.
So, what happens to a bike when it’s left standing for weeks on end?
That depends on how carefully you’ve looked after it. Follow the advice in the handbook and all should be well. Otherwise . . .

. . . for a start the battery goes flat, quicker if there is an alarm fitted. The tyres can loose pressure and even distort. The bike starts to look dirty. Damp gets into the engine, control cables, brakes and chain. All of these things make the bike unpleasant to use and even dangerous.
What do we need to do to get back on the road?
Sort out the legal things first – tell the insurance company that the bike is no longer laid-up. Do you need to get the bike MOT tested as any bike 3 years old or older must have a valid MOT. You can ride an untested and untaxed bike to the test centre as long as it is insured for you to ride it and you’ve made an appointment. But, and it’s a big but, before you ride the bike anywhere you must make sure it’s safe to do so. Even if the bike’s going to the dealers under its own power it still needs to be checked.
Once the legal stuff is taken care of the next thing to do is make sure the bike is safe to use. What follows is a SAFETY CHECK and applies just as well to the veteran Ariel as to the Fazer and the Jog. What it does NOT do is tell you how to fix anything you find wrong. If you’re not sure how to do something read the handbook. If you still don’t know what you are doing GET ADVICE from someone who does – your local dealer being favourite. Remember too that the handbook is the authority: there may be other things as well as BOLTS that need to be done.
BOLTS is the word I use as a memory-jogger for what to check – straight from CBT.
Brakes, Oils, Lights, Tyres, Steering and suspension
We won’t do things in this order this time, we’ll attend to the oils first, then tyres, brakes, steering and suspension and finally lights.
OILS: Check the oils as per the handbook. Take the oilcan to the various pivots such as footrests both rider and pillion, controls both hand- and foot-operated and the exposed ends of any control cable there may be. If the bike has a back chain, lubricate that as well. Use proper chain lubricant. This way it shouldn’t get onto the back tyre and cause other problems.
If you bike is liquid-cooled, check the state of any hoses and check the liquid level. A hose which splits under pressure when the bike is hot can be really bad news.
TYRES: Check the tyre pressure using a proper, accurate pressure gauge which isn’t the one on the footpump. Check that there is legal tread on the tyre: 1mm for bikes, visible for ‘peds. Remove any bits of stone, glass, whatever that may be stuck into the tyre before they become punctures. Also look for any cuts, cracks or bulges in the tread and the side of the tyre. Cuts which expose the tyre construction are bad news as are any cracks or bulges. The law, quite rightly, is very strict on tyres and worn or incorrectly inflated or damaged or unsuitable tyres will get you into serious bother.
BRAKES: The brakes need to work efficiently. It doesn’t matter what sort of brakes you have – hydraulic disc, cable-operated drum, dummy belt or even rim brakes, the principles are the same.
Firstly, check the controls are working properly. There should be a little free movement of the control which is usually when the brake light comes on but we’ll check that later. Then there should be resistance which is where the brake is actually applied and that resistance should increase until you can’t move the control any further. This shouldn’t be because the control is now hard against the handlebar or a footrest or something.
Now check the brakes themselves. With the brake applied, you shouldn’t be able to push the bike; if you can SOMETHING IS WRONG AND NEEDS FIXING. Release the control and try to push the bike again. Now it should move freely with no trace at all of anything rubbing. A brake which doesn’t come on when you want it to is dangerous but so too is a brake which doesn’t free off properly. That rubbing will generate heat which will cause things to expand and so rub more which in turn creates more heat until you can’t move – or the front wheel skids out from under you on the first bit of slippery road surface you meet. So if there’s rubbing SOMETHING IS WRONG AND NEEDS FIXING.
Incidentally, if your bike has cast-iron discs (I know of Brembo discs being fitted to Ducati, Moto Guzzi, BMW and Lockheed discs fitted to various old British bikes) they will be covered in a loose rust. Get this rust off with a wire brush, not anything abrasive like emery cloth before you try the brakes as this rust can embed itself into the pads and make the brake very snatchy.
Check the fluid levels with hydraulic brakes. Also check that the brake pipes aren’t leaking and don’t bulge when the brake is applied. Check that the metal brake pipes aren’t corroded and the flexible ones aren’t cracking. With disc brakes check the amount of wear on the pads and disc. With drum brakes, check the wear on the linings. With cable-operated brakes, check the outers of the cables for damage and wear and check that the inners aren’t worn or corroded.
STEERING and SUSPENSION: The steering needs to turn smoothly from one side to the other without being notchy or trapping cables or wiring and without touching fairing or tank. Look out for cables or wire which were retained with rubber clips or ties. Once the rubber perishes the cable or wire drops down and can easily get caught or crushed by the steering.
The suspension should go down when pressed and then rise up and then settle where it started from, both at the front and the rear. Do this by applying first the front brake and pushing forward on the handlebars and then the rear brake and pushing down on the seat. Before doing this however it’s worth just wiping the exposed front fork stanchions to remove any dirt or corrosion. This will help the fork seals live a little longer. There should be no oil leaking from the suspension units – leaking oil means that the unit is damaged and can’t be trusted and the oil – especially at the front – usually finds its way onto the brakes and then they don’t work properly either. Suspension which doesn’t move is both uncomfortable and dangerous as is suspension which has lost its damping and takes more than one down-up cycle to stop moving.
LIGHTS: Before starting the engine check that the battery is in good order and so are its connections. A battery which has been completely neglected for 3 months, no matter how new it was, will probably be useless. More than useless, a flat battery which won’t take a charge can ruin the bike’s charging system. So make sure the battery is OK, then check the lights and the horn. Wipe the lights to get rid of any dirt. Check the headlight, both dipped and main beam and pilot light, rear light, instrument lights, indicators and brake lights. Check that both brake lights work. They should come on in the first part of the movement of the control – having the light only come on after the wheel has locked is pointless.
FINALLY if, after checking, you’re still not sure, ask you dealer for advice and perhaps even have it taken to the dealer by van or trailer.
© Smart Motorcycle Training 2009
Reproduced with permission.